.

‘Sushi Nazi’ Says ‘Sayonara’ to Studio City

Chef and longtime owner of Sushi Nozawa gives a rare interview to Studio City Patch.

He doesn’t like to talk much. He certainly doesn’t like to talk much to the press. And, he shrugs about the moniker that some of the press has given him—“The Sushi Nazi.”

He’s not German, he’s Japanese, he points out with a smirk.

“Sometimes, people come in and they have bad manners,” he says. “I tell them to go out.”

Kazunomi Nozawa is closing his shop in Studio City on Feb. 29 after more than a quarter of a century.

That may not sound like a big deal along that strip of Ventura Boulevard where there are dozens of sushi bars, but this tiny shop of a few hundred square feet has often been called by critics as the place to get some of the best sushi in the world.

Nozawa has earned top Zagat survey ratings for the past two decades. The New York Times calls the fish “the freshest from the world’s waters,” but it’s Chef Nozawa’s gruff demeanor that makes him legendary. The Los Angeles Times describes  him as “imperious,” the LA Weekly calls him “a sushi tyrant.”

Of course, it’s the overbearing “Soup Nazi” from the Seinfeld TV series (which was taped for most of the 1990s down the street at the lot), that earned Nozawa his nickname, for kicking out disrespectful customers and telling people what they should order, much like the Russian soup chef.

“Americans have to understand my style and my country’s people,” he says, not looking up as he sliced up the fresh fish of the day. “I’m Japanese.”

Then he looks up with the sharp knife wagging like a finger. “And sometimes people have very bad manners, OK?”

So why is he closing shop? He answered that after Studio City Patch  tapped at the window a few hours before the lunch crowd just after it was announced he was closing. He hesitatingly unlocks the door and agrees to an interview. He is good about recognizing people who have come to his place for a long time.

“has come to visit me for 26 years,” Nozawa smirks. “Before he was famous, he comes here. Tom Hanks, too. Mel Gibson.”

It’s a rare night that someone notable from TV or film isn’t at Nozawa. (Personally, we’ve seen Drew Barrymore, Jodie Foster, Rebecca Romijn, , , and many others seated nearby in the close tables.)

A sign above his head behind the sushi bar says “Trust Me,” and when you arrive, he sizes up your table and your appetite, figures out what is best suited for you, and then sends a bill—it could be near three figures per person.

You could order off the menu, but it’s frowned upon—and it defeats the purpose of the experience.

“The customers understand,” the chef says. “They figure out how it works.”

The “Trust Me” model started early in his career. A customer once told him he didn’t like toro. It was stringy at another restaurant.

“In Japan, ‘toro’ means like butter, it melts in your mouth,” and so, that’s what Nozawa shows his customers. He only serves yellow fin and big eye tuna. The loyal customer trusted him from then on, and now many more do, too.

He looks around at his modest tables. He knows people stand outside and wait for a tables. He takes no reservations.

“No decorations, nothing fancy, no talk,” he points out. “Every day I have 100 people come through here.”

So why call it quits now?

“It’s hard work. For 26 years every morning I go to the fish market, I pick the fish,” he sighs heavily and looks up. “I am 66 years old now.”

(See the series of videos in the gallery above of how he picks his fish and an average day of work.)

It’s been a long time since he recalls throwing someone out—another sign of his aging, he smiles. Take out your cell phone, that can get you kicked out. Signs warn that the whole place is a “cell-free zone.”

Ask for a California roll? That could get you kicked out. There’s no such cute-named Caterpillar roll or anything like that here. The sushi is done in traditional Japanese style.

“I love Studio City,” Nozawa proclaims. “I have the number one customers in Studio City, I am very happy. They were very high class.”

Over the years he had many chances to expand in the modest mini-mall to a bigger space—in fact a much larger Japanese restaurant is two doors down, but he turned down the offers.

“There is one chef, that is me, that is OK,” he says. “Too many is no good.”

He has 47 years of experience as a sushi chef, and always loved food. He came from Japan to California in 1977, and worked for a friend who opened a sushi bar in Encino in 1980. Six years later, he opened his own place in Studio City.

In Tokyo he took up an apprenticeship at one of the city’s premiere sushi shops, working 15-hour days six days a week. He hasn’t stopped that rigorous pace. He became fascinated in all sorts of fish—octopus, glass fish, and studied in Anchorage, Portland, New York, Detroit and more.

Now, he and his son, Tom, and a group of businessmen own three other stores in Brentwood, downtown and Santa Monica called Sugarfish. He will probably offer lessons to young promising sushi chefs at those locations.

He was never concerned or threatened by the incredible number of sushi places proliferating along Ventura Boulevard—the most prolific kind of food in all of Studio City.

“There are many sushi places, but they are not mine,” he smiles.

And why not pass on this place to another chef? Why not keep the sushi going?

He points to the sign above the window of his restaurant and merely nods.

It is the only store that bears his name—Sushi Nozawa.

“No one else will be chef here.”

Linda Rubin February 10, 2012 at 02:05 AM
Great story, Mike. Good on you for getting the interview.
Scott Killeen February 10, 2012 at 02:29 AM
Jeff, Your panties are way to tight. Have you every thought maybe "print" is the not so social media? Let's see, the Soup Nazi character was on the most watched TV show at it time, and is in reruns still today WORLDWIDE! A Super Bowl commercial mentioned and showed the "Soup Nazi" character, his name "Soup Nazi" was even spoken to millions and millions of people, it's a known, should I say "icon" of that era of TV. But you are concerned with a media that is smaller and smaller every day. It's okay to say it on TV and on the Internet but GOD DAMN don't print it! Did I just offend people with that GD...sorry. Please go to JC Penny's and buy a pair of tightie whitie underwear two sizes larger, for all of us.
Jeff February 10, 2012 at 03:10 AM
Scott, obviously you have missed the points of my commemts. This article nor I care about Seinfeld and the character of the Soup Nazi. Anything having to do with television , film, Larry David and popular culture is incidental to this article. This article is about the demise of Sushi Nozawa and the politically incorrect yet attributed moniker of "Sushi Nazi" to it's owner. What I said was that it was unnecessary to use that moniker in the article to describe the chef/ owner even though that is a name he has been called by some websites.
Mike Szymanski February 10, 2012 at 06:55 AM
Did you see the follow-up, not using anything someone could say is derogatory... http://patch.com/A-qJSh AND see the Holocaust survivor story: http://patch.com/A-qJvR
Jeff February 10, 2012 at 07:33 AM
Not only saw both but appreciated it like your other reporting on other subject matter that appears in the Patch. I probably over reacted but I expect more from journalists / publishers . I expect them to be more sensitive than the rags at the checkout and the blog websites on the net. I find the Patch to be the only news related site to cover Studio City and am glad that it exists. .

Boards

More »
Got a question? Something on your mind? Talk to your community, directly.
Note Article
Just a short thought to get the word out quickly about anything in your neighborhood.
Share something with your neighbors.What's on your mind?What's on your mind?Make an announcement, speak your mind, or sell somethingPost something
See more »